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  ©1997-2008


Oil Leaks

Everyone knows that Harleys don't leak oil, they just mark their spot! (ever seen those signs that say "Washington stayed here"?)

Evolution ('84-'99) cylinder base and rocker box gaskets are a very common spot for leaking oil. The usual causes can be uneven mating surfaces, improper gasket installation or torque procedures, or improper warm up procedures by the operator.

I can't stress the need for warming up your bike before riding enough. When the cylinders warm up they expand (or grow), increasing the pressure on the gaskets. If you don't let your bike warm up, there won't be enough pressure on the gaskets to keep them sealed.
 Inner primary seals and transmission shifter shafts are also a very common spot for oil leaks.

Obviously you must find exactly what is leaking before you can determine what will be needed to fix it. Degrease the area in question and run the bike a little and watch the area for the beginning signs of seepage. The use of a spray-on powder deodorant will help pinpoint the exact leak.
The only hope of curing a gasket or seal leak is to replace it, simply trying to make the bolts tighter will never stop a leak and will probably just strip out the threads. The only gasket sealer I will recommend is Hylomar (available at most automotive supply stores), never use any kind of silicone anywhere internally in your motor or where there is oil flow to the motor, it can break off and block oil passages. Hylomar will dissolve in the hot oil. It might plug up your oil filter but that's better than completely stopping oil flow to critical areas. If you have a seal near a bearing or shaft  that has needed replacing several times it's probably pretty likely that the bearing is getting loose or the surface of what is riding against the seal is distorted in some way. You must find the cause of the continued failure and then repair that. It's really a pretty simple concept, the biggest problem is that in most cases a considerable amount of motorcycle has to be disassembled just to get to the problem. Refer to your service manual for proper procedures.
It is rare for an oil leak to cause any damage, the damage is usually a result of the lack of oil after it has leaked out. Always keep a close watch on oil levels if you know you have a leak.

If you ride an older bike (Pre-Evo) you will find that all us old-school guys know not to worry about if our bikes leak oil, the time to worry is when it stops leaking.

 

Oil Leaks from the Crank Case Breather / Air Filter

In a perfect world, you would only have a slight oil mist coming out of the crankcase breather which could easily be routed into the air cleaner, aiding the filter's ability to capture dust particles before they enter the engine and also keeping the Safety Nazis at the E.P.A. happy by depositing the oil back into the engine instead of dripping on the ground (We take oil out of the earth, God forbid that we would ever let any drip back in!) With the TwinCam motors and later model Sportster this problem has been almost completely eliminated but can still appear in motors with performance upgrades.

Originally the problem of oil coming from the breather was a leftover from the "total loss" oiling system where all of the oil was supposed to drain onto the ground instead of back to the oil tank. Harley has made some pretty good improvements since those days but part of the breather problem has hung on for a while now.

The most common reason for oil coming out of the breather/air cleaner is simply from over filling the oil tank. The oil tank is vented to the gearcase in the engine using a stand pipe in the oil tank, when the tank is slightly over filled it will be fine until the oil starts to get warm and expands, raising the level in the tank until it flows down the vent tube and into the gearcase. The excess oil in the engine is blown out the breather (which vents into the air cleaner through the heads on later models.)

Do not try to fill the oil tank to the "Full" mark on the stick, always run it with the oil level just below the full mark and above the add mark when the oil  (not just the bike) is hot.

ANYTIME there is an excessive amount of oil coming from the crankcase breather it is because either the collection and scavenging system is malfunctioning, leaving too much oil in the bottom end (crank case). This could be because oil is not being pumped out of the engine as fast as it's being pumped in (small pieces of metal passing through the oil pump can damage the return side of the pump and reduce the flow back to the tank.) or bad umbrella valves may prevent the air and oil from the breather from separating properly or blocked/pinched vent lines or oil passages. There are a number of reasons - Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to find that reason. I can't find the reason your bike is doing it with just email.

The Cure from J&P CyclesJ&P Cycles and Custom Chrome inc. (CCI) sells a kit called "The Cure" and it has proven to work very well in Evo BigTwins ('84-99) and Evo Sportsters ('86-) with reducing the amount of oil carry-over.
Another solution is to just reroute the breather away from the air cleaner to an inline breather filter (never leave the end of the line exposed to dirt and debris) and mount it somewhere on or under the bike. It will still drip a drop or two on the driveway (or living room floor, whichever the case may be) but at least it's not dripping on the nosecone or blowing back onto your leg.

 

Heavy oil flow from breather,
but only right after start up

If you notice that you have a bunch of oil puking at start up but it stops after a minute or two of running, that's an easy one. If your motor only pukes at start up that means that the crankcase is filling with oil while the bike is not running and it all gets pushed out the breather when you start the bike. This is usually happens after the bike has been sitting for a while and is caused by oil seeping past the oil pump check-ball .(Pre-'77XL, Pre-TwinCam BigTwins, or the oil filter mount ball-check '87 and later XL) Often this can be corrected by simply replacing the check-ball. In more severe cases the check-ball seat may need to be resurfaced. Be sure to remove the pump from the motor before lapping the seat and thoroughly clean all the lapping compound from the pump before reinstalling.

 

J&P Cycles - Parts for your Harley-Davidson® AND Metric Motorcycle!